We stroll the gardens of the Bardini family. Once a private estate the gardens are now public. The family made its fortune dealing in Renaissance antiques during the time of Napoleon. We pass under a tunnel of wisteria and even without blossoms it is magical. An ancient stone wall is home to a species of rose from the time of Michelangelo. I have seen these roses in paintings. But to take in their perfume is something different all together. My sister in law tells me that the older the rose the stronger the scent.