Gli Uffizi

May 30

We brave the rain to visit the Uffizi museum this morning. The gallery houses seemingly endless works by Botticelli, Michelangelo, Reubens, and many many more. The ceilings are painted with intricate designs or layered with gold leaf. 

When we need a break from the intensity of famous art and the push of the crowds we head to the open terrace on the roof. The rain has let up for a time and we can see the Duomo through he stone railing. A little bird hops over to us looking for crumbs. The clouds are heavy with moisture and we can feel the sky above us. The Palazzo Vecchio is so close it feels like we could reach out and touch its toothy parapets. 

Wash Board

May 29 

I feel like I've stepped into another world when we stay at Nonno and Nonna's tidy row house in the outskirts of Florence.  Clothes are washed mostly by hand in the outdoor wash basin. There are three faucets: hot, cold and well water. Nonna says well water is better for colors because it doesn't fade the clothes. After a good scrub on the inclined stone washing board clothes are hung to dry on a line in the garden.  

My girls love to play washer woman. This morning after diligently washing a pair of socks and a washcloth they decide to make Flower Soup. Nonno takes them around the garden collecting faded blooms. They mix and stir them until it is time to pour the mixture into the little hole they have dug with Nonno's ancient hoe. 

Santa Maria Novella

May 28

This morning we visit Santa Maria Novella. The white and dark green marble has recently been returned to its original state by a team of experts with very small brushes and a lot of patience. 

We continue our stroll under sprinkling skies through medieval streets designed for horses and pedestrians. Thankfully most cars are now prohibited from the area, but one has to keep an eye out for a speeding taxi or delivery truck. 

A sliver of Il Duomo appears ahead. Someday we will trek to the top but today we are happy to crane our necks to admire its majesty. 

Bardini Gardens

May 27

We stroll the gardens of the Bardini family. Once a private estate the gardens are now public. The family made its fortune dealing in Renaissance antiques during the time of Napoleon. We pass under a tunnel of wisteria and even without blossoms it is magical. An ancient stone wall is home to a species of rose from the time of Michelangelo. I have seen these roses in paintings. But to take in their perfume is something different all together. My sister in law tells me that the older the rose the stronger  the scent. 

We come around a corner and there is the famous Duomo, the domed cathedral of Florence, third largest in the world. I have never seen it this way, framed by trees, nestled into the city. Saint Mary of the Flowers is its full name. A cathedral after my own heart. 

Hens

May 27

The morning is spent with Nono in the chicken coop. My girls get to know the new hen and name her Little Chocolate. She pecks at anything shiny or bug like. They feed her lettuce, give pets and sing her songs. After a while we check the laying box and there it is, a brand new egg. It is delivered to Nonna with utmost care. 

San Miniato

May 26

We are up and out early this Sunday morning. We visit San Miniato, the church that overlooks Florence with sparkling mosaics and monks who chant in the ancient crypt. 

The sky is robin's egg blue and we soak in the much appreciated sun. Florence rests before us. 

Nonno's Jungle

May 25

It is pouring when we wake up. I've set two alarms and asked Nonna to please come check that we are up by 8:30. The first day is the most important in getting over jet lag. If we sleep in today we won't be tired tonight and it will take forever to get on track. 

My second grader (to be) gets up with me and dresses in her auntie's sweater. We did not pack for wet and cold. La Zia (auntie) takes her to get shoes that will keep the water out. 

After lunch it is still raining but we can't resist. While unpacking the store of toys we only get to use once a year we find two kid sized umbrellas. Perfect. On with the new shoes and into the dripping jungle of Nonno's garden.